Mississippi

Mississippi Mississippi you black river... You have to watch men’s trouble On black lots and tears... Famous black singer Paul Robson sang about her this way. In fact, this river could tell many stories, also about of my sailor’s life... For years our ships dropped here anchors, arriving to load grain for Europe and all world. Some Polish Steamships Co. ships, were loaded here every day, we knew this river how own, because we were more often on her, then on our river Oder. This time I was sailing to New Orleans on m/s "University Jagiellonski”. Longest world river (together from Missouri -6970 km), named by Indians "Father of waters” marked at sea own presence on 60 mil in front of estuary - changing blue water of Mexican Gulf onto gray and muddy. She rolled and settled at the estuary yearly about 211 millions' cubic meters of mud. This material sedimentary yearly shifts estuary of river about 100 meters into the sea, where (at high state) about 51000 tones of water falls in a second? There are places where fresh water meets salt water and creates on 3 - 5 meters depth suspension "Slush” – so dense, that may even reduce speed of ship. "Father of waters” draws own springs Itasca of (460 meters above level of sea) in State Minnesota from outflow of lake. Near of St. Louis accepts tributary of Illinois and Missouri and close to Cairo join the richest in water tributary of Ohio. From this place run of river is moles and variable, she divides onto arms (bayous) and running through boundary strip banks it had spilled. Inches drainage basin hugs 3250000 square kilometers - or 10 times more then Polish territory. Sometimes Mississippi runs 7 knots, but sometimes falls of river arguments, is so small (20mm on 1 km) is exceedingly – then water almost ‘’stands’’, and river is reaching width 2.4 of kilometer. We are sailing between numerous Oil Rigs exploiting of oils fields and gas, as usual in deepest SW PASS entrance of the river. There we are taking pilot to Pilot Town - for one stage about 1,5 hour of navigation this time we sailing to Batton Rouge. On Pilot’s Ladder climbs with trouble fat Pilot. -Fucken shit!!! – We can hear him on the stairs. -Welcome on board - I greet him politely on bridge. -Go to Hell Captain! Why do you have not a lift? - he answers. I have reduced already my 60 pounds weight and I am hardly alive - he adds. From where this Americans have such a fat asses? - I wonder myself. In a few moments Pilot cached second breath, started eat sandwich prepared by cook and recovers better humor. - Do You Know Captain? - he asks - some days ago - here in entrance from one ship jumped into the river 12 stowaways from Dominican Republic. Only one survived – he told newspapers after that how he saw own family eaten by alligators. -Cholera!!! Nice story, I heard that happen often here under the way... - Not very often!!! You know these stupid stowaways escaping to paradise and when they see land can not stay any longer and jump to the water - and there are alligators waiting on them on swamps. - They do not know, that there is not any passage through these swamps... - So how this one survived?.. -When he saw what is happening, jumped again to the water and cached piece of wood and on top of that sailed on bay. Sake of God, fisherman found him. He had luck, because you know who knows this river, will tell you that it’s very small chance to survive... It was morning, and mosquitoes from swamps were biting like crazy..., Cholera – I think - on this infernal swamps lying in ambush malaria and Yellow Fever... At Pilot Town we changed Pilot and together with Pilot entered young boy. -Such a young and already Pilot? - I wondered... -Captain... My Father was here Pilot, and my uncle still is a pilot at Mississippi. - I Know... I know – I heard about, here to join as pilot, one should have Pilot in family... - This is mafia Captain; one should have besides two pilots for recommendations... -Just, I saw once on the river black Pilot’s assistance? -This is truth, he was a one – Federals pushed us to do this, to show that there is not have racism. But this "Gorilla” did not resist long time. -Just because of you – I though - in fact racism exist in this State, where is 52% of Blacks, and probably in New Orleans 70% residents are black. -Captain... As you know history, we white discovered this land, and we were fighting for these territories, and Negroes were our slaves... - I know that, I read Louisiana history open by .R. La Salle'a, who in 1682 year sailed from Canada, then on Mississippi reached Mexican Gulf. Took up this Land in the name of France’s King Louis IV and named Louisiana from the name of king Louis. - Captain, from where do you know our history? You know surely, that this white Frenchmen established here in 1694 year first village. -Of course, but natives were Indians here – I put in.. -That’s why we had to fight with them... and not only with them. Frenchmen always fought for freedom with Englishmen and Spanish. Really in 1817 they united this State. - I Know I read about it, New Orleans was foundered by Frenchmen in 1718, but passed together with Louisiana State in 1763 in Spanish hands, then after that in 1800 came back to France, and France sold him in for United States in 1803 … -Just you can see how much we had to fight, and we brought Negroes here as slaves from Caribbean to work onto plantations. They proliferated so much, and now we cannot manage with them. By the way to New Orleans we passed 13 small ports where were berthed some ships, and on following anchorages were waiting others. Some of them were loading from floating elevators. Traffic on the river was "How on Marszalkowska street”, between ships sailing up and down the river, sailed tugs, motor boat, push-boats with long set of barges. Pilots made an appointment between themselves on "two whistles” or on "one” and they passed starboard or port sides. Yearly arriving here over 6000 ships... Largest may have draft up to 13.7 meter. Turning about sixteenth miles before New Orleans Pilot said: - Do you Know Captain why this turn is called: "English Turn”? ... -Why? -During war with Englishmen, English fleet was sailing to New Orleans and reached to this turn. Here they met Pirate La Fayette sailboats, which laid them that big French Fleet stands below New Orleans. Englishmen frightened and turned back here – and this way New Orleans was saved. -This means. The lies can be sometimes helpful – I joked. -During this times lived also very famous General Andrew Jackson, who in 1815 beat here Englishmen, he used different stratagems and he was bloody hard. Anyway he was well known already 9 years before how lay Dickenson in duel. He defended the best's name of own Rachela. This Dickenson was excellent shooter - from 8 meters located four shots in silver dollar and hit the string. Jackson cheated him, because he dressed very wide coat and Dickenson did not know in which place aim into his heart... First shoots Dickenson: -"Great God, I did not hit him!!!” – shouted surprised, because Jackson of steel stood aimed the gun at him.. Seconds shoots Jackson, everybody noticed that he was bleeding from the chest. His shoes were full of blood..., but he Remained in position and killed Dickenson. Pilot was changed this time on two – of course whites. On Pilot ladder climbed Father with son …. -Hi Captain! This is my son - future Pilot - introduced the boy shaking my hand. - Welcome Pilot’s family – I greeted them with smile. - You Have rights Captain, this is family... , Really good mafia - joked Pilot. We were close to New Orleans; we could see forest of skyscrapers - hotels and offices. -Captain do you see this old restaurant on this cape on port side on Algiers Point? -Seems... very old perhaps has 200 years - so many what United States? -Captain ... This is new restaurant, inside is very exclusive... Americans are crazy on antiques.... Owner of this pub paid one million dollars, only for making this pub older.... You see this roof ... he put old rusty plates? ... - In fact ... You have short history over 200 years, and because of this, some crazy millionaires are taking to pieces castles in Europe and rebuilding them on newly in America. We turned on Algiers Point and in front of us appeared great panorama of New Orleans On the river how during old former years navigated steam side wheelers (paddlers) and stern-wheelers and we could hear from them romantic music, and on decks see dancing pairs.. Cascades of lights brighten up center of city. On the "River Walk” and around of fountains walked as usually many people.... - See Captain how "River Walk” berths is damaged... - Damn it! There is big hole in the berth... What happened? – I asked looking through binoculars.. -Three days drove into in this berth one ship!!! Probably she had rudder trouble... My friend Pilot got a shock – he saw how on ship’s fore deck falling people from promenade "River Walk” - you know there are shops there... He was running forward and calling for ambulance, then on fore deck saw manikins from shop’s windows.. Fortunately nobody was injured... Only berth and few shops were shattered, and ship of course was towed to shipyard. We passed under two bridges, as usually it was looking that stern mast, will not pass – however we had 2 meters of margin - not once young seamen were gathered here I was watching how old Father -Pilot, was teaching own son. - You See Captain my son is young, but this river he knows well - because was brought up on her.. He already worked on motorboats, and now is time to teach him something more. - You Know Pilot... I think, it is fantastic to pass own knowledge and live for son. We berthed to K-2 (floating elevator), and maneuvers done son under vigilant eye of Father. We were anchored on two anchors, mooring ropes were on buoys. Elevator already waited. On shore we could go only by motorboat, of course crew was ready for shopping. -Gentlemen! – I speak before departure - remember, that not long time ago one steward from our polish ship drowned here. He jumped on motorboat, slipped into the river, and he was no more seen. From this accident is issued new office regulation, all crew going shore by motorboats have to wear life jackets. Everybody wore life jackets and twelve of crew went on shore by motorboat. Driver of minibus drove us about one hour on highways to the center of New Orleans - on Canal Street. Here were cheap Greeks & Jewish shops - selling electronics mainly In one shop I commenced bargain a price for lens to my camera. Seller was clever like a fox. -This fellow bargains with me how Polish Jew – I said to colleague. -Tylko nie polski Zyd! (Only not polish Jew!) - Suddenly said seller. -You better watch what you speak, because you somebody will shoot you, her we have Jewish mafia – he worn me. Seems that in this 1.5 one-millionth city were "Our” Jews also- I responded. We walked between skyscrapers, passed some supermarkets, where man can everything and spent evening of course on French Quarter... Here in center of amusement played world’s famous stars... here played Luis Armstrong and other stars of jazz. Here ends yearly parades of "Mardi Gras”. We watched striptease of transvestites and dance on pipe; drunk cocktail "Hurricane” and we had to come back on the ship. It’s dangerous walking here in the night between homeless sleeping on the sidewalks, but we had only to reach our appointed minibus - that is a second face of capitalism. It close to 2300 hours, when motorboat with crew arrived to the ship and all one by one jumped on gangway’s platform - carrying shopping. I waited as last one - watching as usually, everybody safe entered without problems...Finally remained only three of us: I, Chief Steward and Marian – former 3 rd Engineer. - Sailed with us as "Honorable passenger”. Suddenly I saw how lightly drunk Chief Steward jumps onto backs of standing on platform other seaman. For moments I thought that both of them, would fall in water, but other kept strongly the rails.... Passed long second. I could not help them, because gangway was too far... Suddenly scream and splash of water ... -Chief Steward falls down!!!… -Man over the board!!! – I shouted in Polish and English, anyway everybody saw what happened I cached the motorboat searchlight and put on swimming Chief Steward. He was close to rudder; He works very hard to be afloat... He had no life jacket – but I remember that all crew entering on gangway wore life jackets- it probably runes over his head. -Hold on!!! – I shouted to him and I throw him life buoy. Life buoy fell one meter from him... -Fucken shit!!! – The heaving line is too short!!!... Suddenly -I saw life buoys and life jackets falling down from ship’s deck ... The crew was throwing them down. They could not see fighting with strong current Chief Steward... His "Frog style” was bloody quick and desperate. Two young Americans Skippers of motor boat, were maneuvering approach closer to drowning steward, but they were afraid to catch him in motor boat propeller... -Hold on life buoy!!! – I shouted – throwing again same ring. -Fucken shit !!! – I shouted – again too short!!! Suddenly I saw thrown down from deck life buoy... afloat straight onto nose of Steward... He does not see it... - You have life buoy in front of nose!!! – I shouted with my full power. Steward throws hands out with his last power and cached life buoy... Strong current immediately took him in darkness... I run up motorboat, down the river follow Steward, searching with searchlight nervously ... Is he still alive? Suddenly in light something flashed.. - There is!!! Perhaps reflection from life ring!!!- I shouted. -Go there!!! – I passed wheel for American, and concentrated on searchlight. - I have him there is!!! – I shouted happy. -Marian –I said to our honorable passenger - keep him in searchlight, I will through him life buoy. Young American skipper run near and I through life buoy just in front of Steward’s nose... He was holding tightly life buoy with which sailed in darkness. -Catch Life buoy! - I shouted as much I could, because of noisy motorboat engine He caught it... Now he hanged on two life buoys, and I had him on heaving line... Easy, easy –I think- do not break this line. I towed him to boat side. - He is alongside ... Cholera Marian help me to heave up him on deck!!! - Shit! Like this we have no chance...boat side is too high and current too strong. - cried Marian. -Lets tow him to the bow – there is ladder - advised American. On the bow Steward had no enough power to climb the ladder... -Keep me on my legs – I cried. Then we fixed ‘’bodies chain’’ and that way we heaved up Steward on deck. He was trembling from effort and nerves... I took him to the wheelhouse and even it was warm, I asked American to switch on heating, because Steward looks to fall in pieces from shivers... -Now we look for rest of belts and life buoys – I ordered and run again down the river. After ten minutes we found, all life buoys and life jackets thrown from the ship ... Only plastic bag with Steward shopping sunk in front of our bow. When I cooled down, I realize, that I had no time to tell the crew what happened...I did not notice that this action lasted over half an hour. -University Jagiellonski! Captain speaking! – I call on VHF . - University answers – they replayed at once. -We rescued Chief Steward... All is O.K.... He is alive!!! -Thanks God!!! We thought he already sunk!!! In fact you should thank God - I said to Steward, who was thanking me, because everybody speaking, that this was miracle.... So we can see that a miracle happens!!! Captain W. Grycner